Conceptual design of clothes based on traditional ethnic motives of Tuva
The trend of using the traditions of the national costume in design practice is rapidly gaining momentum. Currently, there are several modeling agencies, costume theaters and many independent designers in Tuva. There is the Union of Designers of the Republic of Tuva, which holds festivalscontests for fashion designers. New collections with a pronounced ethnic orientation are regularly released. In recent years, in the wake of the growing interest in in-depth study of Tuvan culture, there has been a tendency towards a more delicate treatment of unique ethnic material. The main goal of this study is to consider the conceptual design of clothing based on traditional national Tuvan motives, which is a special element of the cultural material heritage. The object of the research is Tuvan traditional clothes, the subject is the process of development of ethnic fashion in the modern costume of Tuvans. The conceptual design of the costume is based on a deep understanding of national semantics and an appeal to the sign-symbolic system of Tuvan culture. A special place in the discourse of the problem under study is given to the works concerning the traditional costume of Tuvans by the following researchers: E.D. Prokofieva, S.I. Weinstein, V.P. Dyakonova, Sh.L. Sat-Bril, A.O. Dyrtyk-ool, S.V. Zaitseva, M.O. Siyanbil, A.A. Siyanbil, R.B. Khovalyg, M.S. Kukhta, Sh.B. Mainy, O.M. Khomushku, A.B. Ondar, O.Kh. Noozun. The ethnographer and literary critic P.G. Bogatyrev provides a list of functions of the national costume, which reflects the fact that clothing can have several functions at the same time, some of which are dominant, others are subordinate. The highlighted classification can be summarized as follows: “practical; national; aesthetic; erotic; magical; age; genital; moral; the function of a festive (wedding) suit, which distinguishes it from everyday clothes; ritual; professional; estate; religion; regional affiliation”. National costume is a rich creative source for creating collections of modern clothes. A whole complex of stylistic characteristics of a traditional costume can be used as the basis for artistic design. The most relevant and capacious from the point of view of the development of modern design is the imaginative component. Changing the fundamental concepts of clothing design implies a revision of the methodological apparatus: variable and combinatorial methods are complemented by deconstruction, inversion, transformation, kinematics. The main direction in the development of modern clothing design using ethnic motives can be described as ethnofuturism, which consists in the synthesis of ethnic traditions and modern culture. Currently in Tuva, a promising fashion designer, a member of the Union of Designers of the Republic of Tuva, Ai-Dash Sat, is actively engaged in sewing ethnic costumes. The young designer is a student of the Department of Technology and Entrepreneurship of Tuva State University. The student created creative works where the forms of the costume are transformed, combined with other types of clothing, etc. An interesting combination of materials and a mixture of national silk with a geometric print conveys an unforgettable image of femininity and boldness in the Boho Glamor collection. Collection “Reflection of Scythian gold”. Ai-Dash Sat also turned to the art of the ancient Scythians, who saw in the Scythian-Siberian animal style new opportunities for the development and enrichment of his artistic language. Collection “Golden Horseshoe”. Happiness lies in every little thing in this life. Happiness is hidden easily if this dress. Happiness has a habit of lingering where the horseshoe is. And if it is golden - double happiness. A collection that reflects history and traditions, family customs that came from ancestors. The work embodies eternal peace and harmony. The bends of a golden horseshoe show - the grace of a woman's silhouette, an iridescent nature - the luxury of a queen, national silk -the strength and knowledge of a wise Tuvan woman. Collection “Pattern Shine”. An exaggerated image of modern youth who is not afraid to show themselves. Shining patterns and bright neon fabrics are eye-catching. The collection uses unusual materials, such as a reflective thermal film in the form of Tuvan ornaments; for the base, a dark blue fabric was chosen, accentuating unique Tuvan ornaments. The highlight of the collection is unusual accessories in the form of glasses with different shapes. National costumes are one of the main ethno-cultural sources for modern designers, the richness and diversity of ethnic costume forms, their deep connections with the history of the people, mythology and art cause the special interest of fashion designers and provide new options for the development of national clothing.