SINGLE MOVEMENT AS A DEFINING FACTOR IN COMPETITIVE CLIMBING
The results of the study of the eﬀect of individual movements on the result and deﬁnition of the strength and trend of the correlation between the sum of the individual movements of a sportsman on a climbing route at a competition and their overall result are given in this article.The performances of the participants of international competitions, including the performances of elite female climbers were studied. Five hundred and thirty-two individual starts of female athletes at a qualiﬁcation stage have been analyzed.A competition factor d (cumulated movements) being amongst the major ones and in many respects deﬁning the resulting performance is a subject of a separate study in this article. The overall result (δ) is studied as a theoretical amount of movements of an athlete on a climbing route at a competition. The δ is a resulting characteristic and the inﬂuence of an independent factor d upon δ is studied with the help of regression analysis.The preliminary analysis showed that the equation  = dis valid only at the beginning of a climb. Further along the route the values of the characteristics start to diﬀer. Rare individual cases where the values were equal and isolated instances where δ < d were registered.The parent population of female athletes was divided into groups according to their sports qualiﬁcation level. The division was carried out using a specially worked out eﬀectiveness index Iр. - ﬁrst group: very high level. Female athletes who completed the climb. Supposed ﬁnalists. Characteristics of the group: 1 - 3 places; Iр > 12,5;- second group: high level. Female athletes who completed the climb or nearly completed the climb. Characteristics of the group: 1 - 9 places; Iр = 5,8 ÷ 12,5;- third group: intermediate level. Semiﬁnalists. Characteristics of the group: place up to 24; Iр = 1,9 ÷ 5,7;- fourth group: pre-intermediate level. Characteristics of the group: 17 - 40 places; Iр = 1 ÷ 1,89;- ﬁfth group: low level. Characteristics of the group: 26-55 places; Iр = < 1.Paired regression models describing the correlation between the cumulated climbing movements and the overall result of a female athlete at a qualiﬁcation stage of an international climbing competition were built with the use of regression analysis. A high degree of correlation is registered in groups 3-5 (r = 0,82 ÷0,86), whilst the correlation is weaker in the groups of climbers with a high qualiﬁcation: 0,68 ÷ 0,70. The coeﬃcient r2 in the group of leaders explains only 47% of the contribution of the factor d and this factor has a negative correlation with the qualiﬁcation of a female climber: the lower the qualiﬁcation of the group the bigger the value of the factor. In the presented regression models the eﬀects from other factors are added to the intercept in the regression equation. All the calculations are valid only for qualiﬁcation stages at international competitions.Presently research is being carried out in order to build more precise models that take into account the inﬂuence of a few factors deﬁning the result at international competitions.